Thursday, 9 February 2012
Wednesday, 13 April 2011
Wedding Cake
The brief
My friend Ellie got married a few weeks months (well, there’s now a baby.. so quite some time) ago, and almost as soon as she'd announced her engagement I found myself offering to make her wedding cake. I'd never done anything on this scale before but I do like baking - although the decorating part scared me a bit - so I thought I could do a passable job. Following discussions with the bride, the format of the cake was decided - 3 tiers, round, at 6, 9 and 12 inches, each a different cake: traditional fruit, vanilla, and chocolate respectively. The fruit cake was to be one single cake, but the vanilla and chocolate would be triple layer cakes, filled with vanilla buttercream and chocolate ganache respectively, and all cakes would be covered with white fondant icing. We argued about the icing a bit - I thought fondant icing wouldn't taste as nice as, for example, a swiss or italian buttercream, but Ellie wanted the smooth look of fondant. And what the bride wants..
Before I start, I should say that I simply couldn't have done this if it hadn't been for the internet, and one blog in particular - Smitten Kitchen's fabulous wedding cake blog and all the incredibly helpful comments posted on it by other bakers. On Smitten Kitchen's recommendation, I also bought Sky High, which I used for the chocolate cake, vanilla cake, and the chocolate ganache.
I should also add that during the run up to the wedding I was leaving my old job, starting my new one, and on holiday for a few days. So the final decorating part took me until 3am on the morning of the wedding - but it was worth it!
About 2 months before the wedding, I made the fruitcake - this was the smallest cake, at 6 inches. I'd never made a fruitcake before, and was surprised at how, well, fruity it was. It is really more fruit than cake - tons of fruit, with just a bit of cake mix binding it together. I used Delia's recipe, unedited, which I will reproduce here. You make it as far in advance as you can, and then keep it wrapped in greaseproof paper in a cake tin, and feed it with brandy whenever you remember (I did it about once a week). (Feeding just means poking it all over with a large needle or toothpick, and then dribbling brandy over it.) Delia's site also has a helpful page which scales up the recipe for different sized tins.
General tips about wedding cake making
Most of these were gleaned before I started from the blogs, books and comments mentioned above, but these all served me very well and so I am passing them on.
· Bake the cakes well in advance and, with the exception of the fruitcake, freeze them. To freeze, when cool, simply wrap in loads and loads of clingfilm (leave no air gaps at all) and place each layer on a board (I just cut circles out of cardboard) and you can then stack them on top of each other in the freezer. The cakes are also easier to work with when frozen, and they defrost quite quickly, so no need to take them out of the freezer until you are ready to use them.
· There was a lot of advice around about how to bake the cakes so that they were level. Keeping the cakes level is important because when you stack them and ice them you need them to be completely flat and you don't want any domes in the middle. Of course, you can cut off any domes (a long serrated knife is best, and it's easiest when the cake is frozen), but it's easier still not to have any domes. The best way to ensure this is firstly to evenly spread the batter in the cake tin - easily done with the cakes I baked as they are quite liquidy - and secondly to bake the cake at a lower temperature than normal, for longer. I don't know why this works, but it does - I had very flat cakes. At the same time, if you are not stacking the cakes on top of each other, as I wasn't, you don't have to go mental about levelling the cakes and using spirit levels. In fact, we used a cake stand with three levels, so all we had to do was plonk the cakes on top of the levels and avoid the whole dowelling, stacking question.
· When rolling out the icing, do it on a large (or several large) sheet of clingfilm. Then you can easily pick up the clingfilm-icing and slap it on the cake, peel off the clingfilm and the icing will be smoothly in one piece on your cake.
· It will take hours to decorate. This isn't really a tip, it's a warning. It took me about 7 hours (with a few disasters on the way) to fill and ice all the cakes and make them look presentable. It might take me a bit less time if I were to do it again, but probably not much less. Also, you need an assistant. You could manage without, but it will be a lot easier if you don't try. Blondini was good at rolling out icing (harder work than it looks), smoothing icing, attaching ribbons, lifting heavy cakes, and buying new ingredients when there were last minute disasters
· For the large layer cakes, I would not recommend using your regular chocolate/vanilla sponge cakes. I have a stand-by chocolate cake recipe that I use all the time, which is light, fluffy, chocolatey and not too sweet - in short, perfect for birthday cakes, fairy cakes, etc. But it is not right for this - these layer cakes have to be really sturdy, because each layer has to be strong enough not to be squashed by the layers on top of it, with icing in between the layers, and then some heavy icing on top of the cake. The 12 inch chocolate cake weighed a ton. I don't know exactly how much, but I know that I used nearly 2 kg of icing sugar in the icing that covered that cake.
· You need a turntable, a smoother, and a non-stick rolling pin at minimum. You also need an electric mixer, like a KitchenAid - it's doable without, I guess, but it would be a horrific nightmare. If you have 3 tins of each size, this would also speed things up, since I had to bake 3 separate cakes for each of the chocolate and vanilla cakes, leaving time for them to cool in between as well. Having said that, you'll find it hard to fit cake mix for more than one layer at a time in your mixer, so perhaps it's not such a big deal.
6 inch fruitcake
8 oz currants
3 oz sultanas
3 oz raisins
1.5 oz glace cherries, rinsed and finely chopped
1.5 oz mixed peel, finely chopped
3 tbsp brandy
4 oz plain flour
0.5 tsp salt
0.25 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
0.25 tsp mixed spice
1.5 oz chopped almonds
4 oz soft brown sugar (I used muscovado)
1 rounded tsp black treacle
4 oz unsalted butter
2 eggs
Grated rind of half lemon
Grated rind of half orange
At least 12 hours before you start, put the currants, sultanas, raisins, glace cherries and mixed peel in a bowl and cover with the brandy.
Grease the tin and line with baking paper. Preheat the oven to 140C/275F.
Cream the butter and sugar together and it is light and fluffy. In a separate bowl, sieve the flour, salt and spices. Beat the eggs in another bowl, and then add them a spoon at a time to the butter/sugar mixture. If it looks like it might start to curdle, add a little flour to prevent it. When all the egg has been added, fold the flour mixture in, and then stir in the soaked fruit, the nuts, the fresh peel and the treacle. Spoon the mixture into the cake tin and spread it evenly, as the cake doesn't really rise so needs to start off evenly. Tie a band of brown paper around the outside of the tin (I didn't have any and used more baking paper - worked out fine for me) and cover the top with a square of greaseproof/baking paper with a hole in the middle about the size of a 50p piece. Bake the cake on the lower shelf of the oven for 3.5 hours, and don't open the oven for at least 3 hours. When cold, wrap it well in lots of greaseproof paper and put it in a tin.
Covering the fruitcake
Although I only did this the night before the wedding, I am putting it here for ease of reading. Confession: the only part of the cakes that I didn't make from scratch was the marzipan I used to cover the fruitcake. I did think about it, but decided I may not be able to get the desired smoothness of marzipan without some easy way of grinding the ground almonds. Here is a recipe that I may have used, if I hadn't just gone and bought a block. You need about 500g (I allowed myself 750g because I was buying it) to cover a 6 inch fruit cake. This recipe makes enough for 700g.
Before rolling the marzipan, take part of it and roll it into a long thin sausage that will fit all the way around the cake. Push this sausage onto the base of the cake, evening out the gap at the bottom of the cake between cake and board, and smooth the marzipan onto the cake. Then simply roll out the rest of the marzipan into a circle about 12 inches in diameter (enough for the top of the cake, the sides and the board that shows under the cake), spread a thin amount of apricot jam onto the cake, and put the marzipan on top. Use the smoother, and with one hand on top of the cake, work around the cake with the smoother to flatten down the marzipan and smooth any air out.
9 inch vanilla cake
This recipe is from Sky High. I edited it simply because I couldn't easily find one of the recommended ingredients, buttermilk. I decided it would be fine with regular milk - I think the buttermilk one would probably have had a very nice taste too, but with normal milk it worked out fine. I only have one 9 inch tin, so I had to divide this into 3 and bake it 3 times:
3 3/4 cups plain flour
2 1/2 cups caster sugar
1 tablespoon plus 2 3/4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
10 ounces unsalted butter
1 1/4 cups plus 1/3 cup buttermilk (or just milk)
5 large eggs
2 egg yolks
2 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Grease and line the tin. Preheat the oven to slightly lower than your normal cake-baking temperature (for me 150 on the fan oven).
Mix the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt, and then gently beat in the butter and 1 1/4 cup of buttermilk/milk.
In a smaller bowl, whisk all the eggs, remaining buttermilk/milk and vanilla, and pour this into the rest of the mix a third at a time, thoroughly beating it each time. Pour a third of the batter into the tin and bake for around 30 mins, testing to see if done with a fork or thin pricking device.
Vanilla buttercream
This buttercream was used between the layers, and then all over the top and round the sides, underneath the fondant icing. I adapted a recipe from Nigella and scaled it up quite a lot, to which I added, instead of plain old vanilla essence, vanilla seeds scraped from a vanilla pod - I think it made all the difference. This buttercream, simple though it is, was the only real disaster of the decorating process, as I opened some milk from the fridge and chucked it into the bowl without looking or smelling first, and it was disgusting, lumpy, and off. Luckily I hadn't added £8 worth of vanilla seeds yet, but I had ruined an entire bowl of icing, and was out of butter (and milk). Blondini had to rush out to buy emergency supplies.
5oz butter
10 oz icing sugar
2 tablespoons milk
Seeds from 1 vanilla pod
12 inch chocolate cake
This recipe is also from Sky High. I had to scale this one up, because none of the sizes in the book fitted what I needed - a round 12 inches. Finally, I found a use for my GCSE maths - I used πr2 to work out how much cake mix I needed to get my 3 12 inch layers. This is a nice recipe - I probably wouldn't use it instead of my normal chocolate cake for a regular cake, but it is very chocolatey, with a nice slightly spicy hint, and it still feels light and moist, though not too airy and crumbly. Perfect for a wedding cake.
This recipe makes a 8 inch round 3 layer version:
This is also from the Sky High book. It was immensely chocolatey (with about 6 bars of 70% Lindt in it), perhaps even too rich for my customers - I made this as a test cake, in 9 inch version, and took it to work - people loved it but it was really really rich - it was hard to eat more than a very small amount. Which was also good because there were about 120 people at the wedding and most wanted to try more than one type of cake. This recipe makes about 4 cups, which was enough for the whole 12 inch cake.
24 ounces dark chocolate
6 ounces butter
1.5 cups of heavy cream (not freezing cold)
1/3 cup brandy or cognac
Fondant icing
I sort of made this recipe up, after looking around in books and online for a recipe. Essentially most recipes seemed to call for egg white, icing sugar and then, most commonly, liquid glucose. I tried 3 different pharmacies and sent Blondini to another 4, but we couldn't find this, so I decided to use glycerine instead. I don't know whether the icing would have worked just as well with just eggwhite and icing sugar, but I think the glycerine gave it a bit of extra stretchiness, which was good for rolling and smoothing, and made smoothing and patching up disaster areas easier.
The recipe is quite simply -
1 large eggwhite
500g icing sugar, sifted
1 tsp (approx) glycerine
Add the icing sugar slowly and just keep sifting it in until the desired consistency (a smooth ball of dough) is reached. For a 12 inch cake, you need around 2 kilos worth of icing sugar. You also need a large non-stick rolling pin.
I covered the fruitcake first, and was amazed at how easy it was. Roll out the icing, put it on top of the marzipan and then smooth it in the same way as the marzipan. If the icing gets sticky on top, or the smoother starts sticking to it, just sprinkle a little more sifted icing sugar on to it.
The fruitcake was so easy it lulled me into a false sense of security, because the other cakes were a bit of a nightmare to cover. The main problem with the chocolate one, which I did next, was the sheer weight of the icing which was needed to cover the cake, which meant that when I had rolled out a circle about 22 inches in diameter (i.e. massive) and managed to get it on top of the cake, parts of the sides started breaking off. I initially thought there was no remedying this (and with the chocolate there was the concern that the chocolate ganache, which was luckily now quite hard, because it had frozen on impact with the frozen cake) would start to come through and stain the white icing. I just had to patch up the fondant and keep smoothing it down, and it took about an hour. You can see how disastrously horrible it looks here, but then take comfort from the fact that by the end it really looked almost perfect.
The vanilla cake was also difficult to ice. The icing wasn't quite as heavy this time, so it didn't threaten to break off, but because of the disaster with the vanilla buttercream, by the time I came to fill and cover the vanilla cake it was no longer really frozen, and the icing was quite soft. I put it back in the freezer while working on the other cakes, which helped, but wasn't quite enough. Also, this cake was the only one which was not really level, and Blondini and I thought it was a good idea to "level" the cake by adding loads of buttercream to the top. It wasn't. When the fondant icing was placed on the top and I tried to smooth it down, bits of buttercream started to squidge out of the bottom, and to form gross lumps under the surface. As before, we managed to save it, mostly, but it was a mess that could have been avoided by (a) using less buttercream on the top, and (b) totally freezing the cake before attempting the fondant, which would have been much easier to work on.
Decoration
I didn't really do much in the way of decoration, because I knew this was my weakest area. I'm crap at being artistic. Ellie had arranged for the florist to provide matching flowers to put on the cake, and she gave me ribbon which was being used for other wedding things, so it would match. I attached ribbon to the outsides of the cake, which helped disguise some of the more horrible areas, and I piped little flower/shell things around the base (this was also surprisingly hard - do a lot of piping practice beforehand, if you can).
I then put the cakes in boxes (I ordered boxes which would precisely fit the cakes from the same suppliers I used for most of my other equipment - Sugarcraft) and in the morning, took them to the venue with the flowers. And I was really proud and excited when it was cut, and the bride said it was the best cake she'd ever had, so it was totally worth it!
Tuesday, 4 May 2010
Working lunch
The following can obviously be adapted to suit your tastes, but the quantities below have been making me 3 lunches, and it is quick to make, extremely filling, healthy and really delicious. Even Blondini said that parsley had never tasted so good. Only my grandpa, who has often declared his love for all food except parsley, may refuse to eat this salad.
Sunday, 14 June 2009
Vegetable Spring Rolls
So, a few of my besties and their men came for dinner on Friday, and to start with I made vegetable spring rolls. They are incredibly easy – the only slightly complicated bit is in the folding, which I'm sure most of you would be able to do without any difficulty but I was never good at origami and I couldn't work out how to do them until Vangie, my parents' great cleaner, showed me how, Phillipines-style. She gave me a spring roll masterclass one afternoon, and in exchange I gave her a chocolate cake masterclass – the perfect swap.
These spring rolls are only lightly pan-fried, so are much healthier than those you'd get in a restaurant, and they crisp up beautifully in the oven if you want to fry them in advance. Additionally, you can make up the spring rolls and leave them uncooked in the fridge for a couple of days before you need them, so they are great for parties and big dinners.
Vegetable Spring Rolls
Vegetables of your choice – I think the ones that work best are bean sprouts, carrots (grated or finely sliced), pak choi or Chinese cabbage, onion, and thinly sliced peppers. It's hard to give exact quantities but if you want to cheat with this, I recommend buying those packs of ready-prepared stir-fry vegetables – one 300g pack will make around 8 spring rolls (obviously depending on size)
Fresh ginger, grated
Garlic, crushed
Soy sauce
Vegetable oil
Spring roll wrappers
1 egg white
Add a small amount of oil to a hot frying pan, and add the ginger and garlic. Fry for a minute or two and then add all the vegetables. Stir fry for a few minutes, and add soy sauce. You could, of course, stir fry using any sauce of your choice. The key is to add all the flavour you want at this stage because there is no other opportunity to do so. The other important point is to make sure there is no liquid remaining – either drain the vegetables when cooked, or cook them enough so that all the liquid is absorbed or has evaporated. Soggy vegetables will make soggy spring rolls.
Cool, and spoon a small amount onto each spring roll wrapper (this is one kind of pastry I don't think I'll be making myself!) and roll and fold the pastry to seal. It is hard to explain how – see this link for pictures.
Essentially, angle the square pastry so that one of the points is facing you. Put a dollop of vegetables just above this point, about a quarter of the way up the pastry. Roll upwards from your point to the back, and when you are just over half way, fold the sides in over your roll. Continue rolling until the end, and then, using your fingers, smear some egg white over the last point of pastry remaining and stick it down to the roll to seal it.
Wednesday, 25 March 2009
The Bloggeraid Cookbook
I have just submitted my recipe to the people at Bloggeraid and hopefully, in November/December 2009, you will be able to buy the Bloggeraid cookbook on Amazon! 100% of the profits go to the WFP School Meal programme, and you'll get to enjoy recipes from food bloggers all over the world, including one never-before-released recipe from me! I think the closing date for submitting recipes is 31 March 2009, so there is still time for you to get involved. I am posting this now, even though I haven't got a picture of my recipe yet, to give any readers time to get involved as well.
I am very excited by this as, clearly, I love writing about and thinking about food, and I think the School Meals project is a great one. My months spent volunteering in Kenya and Ghana brought home to me the necessity for children to be given a nutritious meal at school, as for many, there may be no other meals that day. Additionally, many families are reluctant to send their children, particularly their daughters, to school, and the school's provision of a meal may be a great incentive for parents to allow their children to go. I can't wait for the cookbook to be published, and I encourage you to submit a recipe too, as this is a fantastic and fun way to get involved in such a great project.
Sunday, 22 March 2009
Yellow Chicken Curry
Yellow Chicken Curry
(serves 2 people - easily multipliable for more)
Chicken pieces (I use chicken breast meat, skinless and boneless and cut into bite-size pieces, but you can make it with bigger pieces, pieces on the bone, etc - you just cook it for longer when you first put it in the oven) - enough for 2 people
1 large red pepper, roughly chopped
1 large green chilli, finely chopped
2 onions, finely chopped or blended in a food processor
2-3 cloves garlic
Large knob of ginger
1 tbsp cumin seeds
1 tbsp coriander seeds
8 cardamom pods
1 tbsp turmeric
approx 200ml soy cream
salt and pepper
oil
If you are using skinless boneless meat as I did, put it in the oven uncovered and start doing the following steps straight away. If the meat has bones, you will need to cook it for at least 30 minutes before starting on the rest of the recipe.
In a frying pan with no oil, heat the cardamon, cumin and coriander seeds, tossing them for a few minutes until you can really smell them and they turn a shade or two darker. Tip them into a pestle and mortar and grind to a fine powder.
Put the finely chopped or ground onions into the frying pan with a little oil, and fry until they turn golden. Add the red pepper and green chilli with some salt, and then add the ground spices. Cook for a few minutes until the pepper has softened, and then take the frying pan off the heat. Add the soy cream and stir until you have a thick, brownish sauce. Remove the chicken from the oven, and pour the sauce over the chicken. Cover the chicken with foil and return to the oven. Cook for at least 15 minutes like this (probably longer if your chicken has bones).
In the meantime prepare your rice or whatever accompaniment. About 10 minutes before you are ready to eat, remove the foil from the chicken and stir. The sauce should now look yellow as you mix in the marinade from the chicken into the sauce. Cook uncovered for 10 minutes and then serve.
Thursday, 12 March 2009
a couscous comeback
I have been a bad blogger. I apologise, but I am staging a comeback. Thanks to those who remembered that I had a blog and kept pushing me to update it (Jo and Dannii) and to Vanessa whose fabulous blog inspired me to return.
Why haven't I been writing? Well, in the past eight months I've gone off cooking and Blondini and I have been eating nothing but takeaways and ready meals. And then pigs flew and the Pope became a druid. Really, it's because it turns out that blogging is one of those things that is really enjoyable but once stopped is hard to restart. I kept thinking: that would be interesting to write about, I'll do it later, but obviously later never came. And then of course there were the photos that I constantly felt guilty about not taking and not uploading, because I felt that a food blog needed to have lots of pictures of the food I'd been making (which it does). But maybe sometimes I'll have to do it without pictures, because I just can't always be bothered.
So, something foodie....
Well, last night I discovered couscous. I had known of couscous, of course, but I just didn't really get couscous before, and I now know that this was because I, and probably most people in this country, didn't know how to make couscous. Blondini makes it for lunch quite often, with sardines or tuna or mackerel and vegetables, and he had made it for me as a side dish on a couple of occasions but although I generally love everything he makes, I just didn't really love the couscous. It was a bit tasteless (apart from the bit where he'd put an enormous quantity of cayenne, cumin and salt and not stirred it in - that bit had too much taste) and kind of lumpy and stodgy. But then about a month ago we went out for dinner to a Moroccan restaurant and I had couscous and it was delicious. So I did some googling around, and found out that although in this country couscous is considered to be a kind of instant food - just pour on some hot water and let it stand - in North Africa it is anything but instant. I am not talking about the laborious process of actually making couscous, the rolling of the semolina and so on, but of the actual cooking itself.
According to google, the first thing I needed was a couscousiere. This appears to be an enormous pot whose sole purpose is, yes, couscous cooking, and since we don't have the largest kitchen on the planet, nor did I even know if I liked couscous yet, I decided, in an uncharacteristic move, not to go out and immediately purchase a couscousiere. Instead, I discovered that you can fashion a makeshift couscousiere out of an ordinary saucepan, a sieve and some foil.
Step 1
Weigh out the couscous. Apparently you want approximately 60 grams of dry couscous per person. I made 200g for 3 generous portions.
Put the couscous in a shallow but quite large bowl. Dissolve a teaspoon of salt in water - use approximately 15ml water for every 50g couscous. Pour the water onto the couscous and stir in with your fingers, rubbing to separate the grain and break up lumps. When the couscous has soaked all the water, stir in approximately a teaspooon of olive oil.
Step 2
Pour boiling water into the saucepan and put the sieve on top. Choose a saucepan that your sieve fits snugly on top off - the point is to avoid any steam escaping around the sides of the sieve but to allow as much surface area of the sieve to have contact with the steam rising from the pot as possible. It is also important that the water does not reach the sieve, so pour out some of the water if necessary. Fit foil around the sieve and saucepan to close off any gaps, and then put the couscous in the sieve. Cover with the saucepan lid, and simmer the water for about 20 minutes.
Step 3
Tip the couscous back into the bowl and sprinkle with more water - the same amount as you used before. Add another teaspoon of olive oil and stir well with a wooden spoon. Let it soak up and fluff up. You can leave the couscous at this stage until 10-15 minutes before you are ready to eat it.
Step 4
Put the couscous back into the sieve and repeat Step 2 for another 10-15 minutes. Serve your delicious, fluffy and light couscous with anything you like! We had it with a simple chicken tagine of my own invention - caramelised onions and preserved lemons.